Switcharoo: Nau Lightbeam Jacket

I bought my first Marmot Driclime Windshirt in 2006. With a nylon shell and a surprisingly insulating yet thin lining, it was the perfect jacket for 45-60 degree weather. Still is. I'm on my second one now and I also use it extensively for "winter" cycling, boot camp, and pretty much all outdoor activities. You can almost always find a previous season's version on sale for around $50. In terms of functionality and versatility, it is a clear winner. Reviewers online strongly agree. The jacket is at least on its 14th version. However, as you can see above, the women's version is not flattering at all. It's boxy, and has the dreaded puffy sleeve cinched wrists combination. I love the thing. But seeing poorly dressed women/moms around the office reminds me that I don't want to knowingly emulate them.

images from thethoughtkitchen and nau

Enter the Nau Lightbeam. At $175, it is 2-3x pricier than the Marmot Driclime. Modern, truly fitted, made of 100% recyclyed polyester, and highly packable, I favor this as a someday upgrade. The striped pucker weave is a unique distinction. See this post on the Nau blog on the inspiration behind the design.

Handmade? No

Made in: China, fabric from Japan

$175

Patagonia Nano Puff Pullover

images from sonnietrotter, utahoutside, thesternscoop, respectively

Outdoor outfitter Patagonia's designs lean towards the conservative, mainstream side, e.g. fitted jackets for women, loose-legged pants for men, and blandish undergarments, while occasionally pandering towards their more stylish and old-school fans with the re-introduction of retro fleece like the boxy Classic Retro-X line. But where did the Nano Puff, introduced in 2009, come from? I recently spotted a college kid wearing this baggy sack while enjoying a burger at Hopdoddy, and thought to myself, "that is one ugly puffy pullover." And my finds (see above) while searching for images in the wild solidifies my opinion. It features elastic at the bottom and creates the illusion of muffin top, even if you are clearly fit. And the women's version has a boxy, faux-feminine cut with its way too roomy sides and arms. Yet the majority of the reviews state that it is amazingly light, warm, waterproof, and is so convenient that it stuffs into its own chest pocket. And did I mention that I have a soft spot for ugly outdoor gear? I really do. I wear my appallingly furry Mountain Hardwear Monkey fleece like the 80's never left. The collar truly does fold down in that unsightly manner, even though you want it to stand up.

image from planetfear

So, I'm very intrigued by the Nano Puff Pullover as a winter staple, and from the looks of the Web Specials section, so are a lot of other people. I smell a future classic in the works.

Handmade? No

Made in: Vietnam

$104.30-$149

Brooklyn Industries Waxed Canvas Jacket

image from brooklyn industries

This is the first I've seen of a heritage waxed jacket for women. A collaboration between Brooklyn Industries, an young urban apparel brand, and British Millerain Co. Ltd, a company that has been producing waxed fabrics since 1980. I'm not crazy about the contemporary stand-up collar- maybe they took the hint from Filson that women prefer modern construction? The mens version looks quite rugged, and I'm so glad they extended the line to women. All in all, they are a terrific deal, as you will probably never again find a waxed canvas jacket of such nice material for under $100.

Handmade? No

Made in: ?

$89

Barbour Beacon Heritage Tartan Blouson

image from the esteemed proper mag

Hot out of the garment factories is the Spring 2011 Barbour Beacon Heritage by Japanese designer Tokohito Yoshida. The details aren't that important. It's just another example of the Japanese (nobody takes style more seriously) remaking a Western classic brand into something more modern, wearable, and with the propensity to be a future classic. I, for one, love the particular blouson (aka blouse jacket) above. You know it's fully functional and can stand up to the worst beating, while looking ever so refined doing it. I definitely recommend this line for consumers who like the style sensitivities of Nau products, but opt for a more traditional feel.

Made in: England (I think)

Handmade? No

£279

Fidelity by Gerald and Stewart Duffle Coat

straight off a navy ship. image from penelopes

Let me start by saying that I am not a huge fan of toggle coats or slim-fit outerwear for women. Yet this simple duffle coat jumped out at me and snuggled its way onto my wishlist. The brushed gray wool is so lovely, reminding me of the stuff of the Birkenstock Davos Clog and byrdandbelle's felt cases. The jute rope is a nice touch, and the roomy fit is classy, but not masculine. It truly is my definition of the perfect cut for a short winter coat. Funny enough, both Fidelity and Gerald and Stewart have very lo-fi websites, adding some enticing mystery to the collaboration. See Commerce with a Conscience's post on the men's long version.

Made in: USA

Handmade? No

$268

Anorak Pullover

Ah, the half-zip pullover. Not nearly as versatile as a jacket, yet having a distinctive boxy style. Do you remember the block-colored Gap anoraks with stuff sacks that were all the rage in the 90's? You could find an entire collection of them lining a store wall. I also managed to find a khaki anorak with 3 oversized bone buttons and a long front pocket at Eddie Bauer about 10 years ago. I still miss that thing, even though it engulfed my small frame. I'm also waiting for anoraks to come back and replace windbreakers and cardigans. In the meantime, here are some acceptable starts.

Lands' End Canvas Women's Ultralight Anorak. The "Canvas" line is Lands' End response to the L.L. Bean Signature Line and a late, mass-targeted entry to the Americana market (or something like that). This anorak is modern slim-fit, nylon, and comes in 3 insipid colors. Imported $22.99

Opening Ceremony Oversized Anorak. This piece, in all its wrinkly nylon-cotton glory, looks like it was fished out of a 40-year old dad's closet. I get it- it's supposed to be preppy! And it is, albeit in an unmistakably 80's way. Sold out.

Lees Army Store Hooded Anorak. Worn by the US Army when the going gets windy and damp. Treated with Quarnel ("Quartermaster Repellent"), the military's version of DWR; it repels liquid while maintaining breathability. The small hood looks out of proportion to the width of the body; this is for layering purposes. (I couldn't seem to find this jacket on a US website.) £24.95

Liberated Wool Peacoat

where is this gent going in these clothes? images from outlier

Bicycling in style has seen a momentous resurgence here in the US. While urban cyclists in Europe have probably never stopped being classy, we have select brands like Rapha and Outlier here to dress us up (and make us broke). They are probably going along with the assumption that most bike commuters hold: that it is perfectly alright to shell out for premium bike parts and accessories since you are saving so much by not driving or owning a car. This week, Outlier had the gall to introduce a semi-stretchy wool peacoat the price of an iPad. It gets me riled up and I almost can't take so much sartorial brilliance on a sweaty cyclist! At least I can find some consolation in the fact that I don't live in New York and have to be around so many well-dressed lads, unlike this poor woman.

Made in: NYC

Handmade? Yes

$575

Outlier Packable Heat Windbreaker

Whether it's a rain jacket or a windbreaker, the light traveler always needs a go-to packable jacket. If you are into ultralight backpacking, you must get GoLite. But if you are into looking sharp on your bike even if it means shelling out for premium clothes that cost as much as a new set of cranks AND a Brooks saddle, then Outlier is your search's final destination. Check out that ultra thin jacket stowed underneath said Brooks saddle! Very compact, very practical, very pricey. Also of note, the company just this year released a women's version of their daily riding pant, which is just as tasty and technical as the men's.

Made in: New York City

Handmade? No

$120

Mackintosh Rain Coat

A demure, understated alternative to the belted-trench. Want/ recommended #3.

Made from Gore-Tex fabric. Made in Japan. Only if you've got £485 to spare. Via Inventory Magazine

Banana Republic, buttoned version, for you mall-only types. Made overseas. $250

Alpha Industries (of course!) H20 Trenchcoat. Also available in military olive. Made in the good ole' US. $120.

Alpha Industries Military Field Jacket

1st image from A.P.C.

2nd image from usarmystyle

I do not claim to know much at all about military apparel (no otaku here). I'm currently reading William Gibson's Pattern Recognition and getting my first taste of that obsession. Generally, I shy away from US military-inspired garb, mainly because the solid colors are drab and the camo prints are so loud, and most feminized versions are too fitted. However, these super-functional designs hold a permanent spot as one of the fashion industry's most drawn-on inspiration. I really love the faded jacket from A.P.C. paired with sweatshorts and a simple blouse, but it's ~$300; a more affordable, reproduction M-65 by Alpha Industries is shown below. That company has a neat history: formerly a military clothing contractor, they now produce for the commercial fashion industry. Talk about cred! Lindsey Weir from Freaks and Geeks (awesome show) was rarely seen without her beloved, tired field jacket on- that secret fashion fiend!

Made in: USA

Handmade? No

$39.96

Filson Tin Cloth Field Jacket

top image from Filson

Filson's Tin Cloth Field jacket is heavy (duty) apparel. When I had the chance to try it on at the Portland store, it felt like I was wearing 5 pounds worth of wet canvas. The material is super oiled, super water repellent. Here's a photo of the women's XS engulfing me. Too bad. Here's to them making a kids line, since, you know, dads like to take their sons out hunting and fishing. I really can't imagine when I'd ever be able to fully utilize a jacket like this, but it makes me happy that it exists anyhow. Filson's tagline? "Might as well have the best."

Made in: USA

Handmade? No

$280

J. Crew Caprice Jacket

Here is a women's jacket that can be described as a girlified mountain parka. It sounds like a terrible concept, but J. Crew actually executed it successfully, as they do on occasion. I bought it when the Texas summer swelter had started, so it is hanging on my coat rack waiting patiently for cooler days. I knowingly broke my rule about trying not to buy crap made in China, only because I had intermittently searched too long for a decent forest green parka. It is much boxier than it looks on the mannequin, which I find charming. (Excuse the iPhone photo quality. One day soon, a DSLR or micro four-thirds.)

Made in: China

Handmade? No

$49